ʻO ka wehewehe o ka lole jacquard

ʻO ka ulana lole Jacquard ma ka mīkini me ka hoʻohana ʻana i ʻelua a ʻoi aku nā wili kala e ulana pololei ana i nā hiʻohiʻona paʻakikī i loko o ka lole, a ʻo ka lole i hana ʻia he mau hiʻohiʻona a me nā hoʻolālā.ʻOkoʻa ka lole Jacquard mai ka hana hana o nā lole i paʻi ʻia, e pili ana i ka ulana mua ʻana, a laila hoʻohui ʻia ka logo.

Moolelo o na lole jacquard

Ka mua o jacquardlole lole

ʻO ka mea mua o ka lole jacquard ʻo Brocade, kahi lole silika i hoʻokumu ʻia ma ka Zhou Dynasty o Kina (10th a 2nd mau kenekulia ma mua o ka paka), me nā hiʻohiʻona waihoʻoluʻu a me nā mākau makua.I loko o kēia wā, ua hūnā ʻia ka hana ʻana i nā lole silika e ka poʻe Kina, ʻaʻohe ʻike lehulehu.I ka moʻokūʻauhau Han (95 mau makahiki i loko o ka paka), ua hoʻolauna ka Chinese Brocade iā Perusia (ʻo Iran kēia manawa) a me Daqin (Emepaea Roma kahiko) ma ke alanui Silk.

Han Brocade: ʻElima mau hōkū mai ka hikina e pōmaikaʻi iā Kina

Ua ʻike nā mea kākau moʻolelo Byzantine mai ka makahiki 4 a hiki i ke kenekulia 6, ʻaʻole i loaʻa ka hana tapestry i ke kilika, ʻo ka lole olonā a me ka huluhulu ka mea nui.Ma ke kenekulia 6 i lawe mai ai kekahi mau mōneka i ka mea huna o ka sericulture - hana siliki - i ka mō'ī Byzantine.ʻO ka hopena, ua aʻo nā moʻomeheu o ke Komohana i ka hānai ʻana, hānai a hānai i nā ʻano silika.Mai ia manawa mai, lilo ʻo Byzantium i mea hana nui a nui loa ma ke ao Komohana, e hana ana i nā ʻano kilika like ʻole, me nā brocades, damasks, brocatelles, a me nā lole e like me ka tapestry.

 

I ka wā o ka Renaissance, ua hoʻonui ka paʻakikī o ka lole silika Italia (i ʻōlelo ʻia ua hoʻomaikaʻi ʻia nā lole silika), a ʻo ka paʻakikī a me ke ʻano kiʻekiʻe o nā lole silika nani i lilo ai ʻo Italia i mea nui a maikaʻi loa i ka mea hana lole silika ma ʻEulopa.

ʻO ka hana ʻana o ka mea ulana jacquard

Ma mua o ka hana ʻana o ka Jacquard loom, ua hoʻopau ʻo Brocade i ka manawa e hana ai ma muli o ke kāhiko lole paʻakikī.ʻO ka hopena, ua kūʻai ʻia kēia mau lole a loaʻa wale i nā aliʻi a me nā mea waiwai.

I ka makahiki 1804, ua hoʻokumu ʻo Joseph Marie Jacquard i ka 'Mekini Jacquard,' kahi mea i hoʻopaʻa ʻia i ka loom i maʻalahi i ka hana ʻana i nā lole i hoʻohālikelike ʻia e like me Brocade, damask, a me ka matelassé.ʻO kahi "chain of cards controls the machine."nui nā kāleka kuʻi i hoʻopaʻa ʻia i kahi kaʻina mau.Kuʻi ʻia nā puka he nui ma kēlā me kēia kāleka, me hoʻokahi kāleka piha e pili ana i hoʻokahi lālani hoʻolālā.ʻO kēia paha kekahi o nā mea hou o ka ulana koʻikoʻi, ʻoiai ʻo Jacquard shedding i hiki ai ke hana maʻalahi i nā ʻano ʻano palena ʻole o ka ulana kumu paʻakikī.

Ua kōkua nui ka mea hana a ka Jacquard loom i ka ʻoihana lole.Ua kapa ʻia ke kaʻina hana ʻo Jacquard a me ka hoʻopili loom e pono ai ma hope o kā lākou mea hana.ʻAʻole kikoʻī a kaupalena ʻia ka huaʻōlelo 'jacquard' i kekahi mea loom akā e pili ana i kahi hana mana hou e hoʻokaʻawale i ke kumu.Hiki ke kapa ʻia nā lole i hana ʻia e kēia ʻano ulana lole 'jacquard fabrics.ʻO ka mea i hanaʻia o ka mīkini jacquard i hoʻonui nui i ka puka o nā lole jacquard.Mai ia manawa, ua hoʻokokoke nā lole jacquard i ke ola o nā poʻe maʻamau.

Nā lole Jacquard i kēia lā

Ua hoʻololi nui ʻia nā loom Jacquard i nā makahiki.Me ka hana ʻana o ka lolouila, ua neʻe ka Jacquard loom mai ka hoʻohana ʻana i ke ʻano o nā kāleka kuʻi.ʻO ka hoʻohālikelike ʻana, hoʻohana ʻia ʻo Jacquard looms e nā polokalamu kamepiula.Ua kapa ʻia kēia mau mea ulana kiʻekiʻe i ka lolouila Jacquard looms.Pono ka mea hoʻolālā e hoʻopiha i ka hoʻolālā ʻano lole ma o ka lako polokalamu a hoʻokumu i ka papahana hana loom e pili ana ma o ke kamepiula.Hiki i ka mīkini jacquard kamepiula ke hoʻopau i ka hana.ʻAʻole pono ka poʻe e hana i nā kāleka paʻakikī no kēlā me kēia hoʻolālā, e hōʻemi nui ana i ka pono o ka hoʻokomo lima a me ka hana ʻana i ka hana ulana lole jacquard i ʻoi aku ka maikaʻi a me ke kumu kūʻai.

ʻO ke kaʻina hana o ka lole jacquard

Hoʻolālā & Papahana

Ke loaʻa iā mākou kahi hoʻolālā lole, pono mākou e hoʻololi mua iā ia i faila hoʻolālā e hiki ai i ka lolouila jacquard lolouila ke ʻike a laila hoʻoponopono i ka faila papahana e hoʻomalu i ka hana a ka mīkini jacquard kamepiula e hoʻopau i ka hana lole.

Hoʻolike kala

No ka hana ʻana i ka lole e like me ka mea i hoʻolālā ʻia, pono ʻoe e hoʻohana i nā wili kala kūpono no ka hana lole.No laila, pono kā mākou mea pena kala e koho i kekahi mau wili e pili ana i ka waihoʻoluʻu hoʻolālā mai nā tausani o nā milo a laila e hoʻohālikelike i kēia mau kala like me ke kala hoʻolālā i kēlā me kēia a hiki i ke koho ʻia ʻana o nā milo i kūpono loa i ke kala hoʻolālā ——E hoʻopaʻa i ka helu wili pili.Pono kēia hana i ke ahonui a me ka ʻike.

Ka hoʻomākaukau ʻana i nā milo

E like me ka helu wili i hāʻawi ʻia e ka colorist, hiki i kā mākou hale kūʻai ke loaʻa koke i ka Yarn pili.Inā ʻaʻole lawa ka nui o ka waihona, hiki iā mākou ke kūʻai koke a hoʻonohonoho paha i ka Yarn i koi ʻia.No ka hōʻoia ʻana ʻaʻohe ʻokoʻa kala o nā lole i hana ʻia ma ka pūʻulu hoʻokahi.I ka hoʻomākaukauʻana i ka Yarn, koho mākou i ka Yarn i hanaʻia i ka hui like no kēlā me kēia kala.Inā ʻaʻole lawa ka helu o nā wili i loko o kahi pūʻulu, e kūʻai hou mākou i kahi pūʻulu Yarn.Ke hana ka lole, hoʻohana mākou i nā pūʻulu Yarn i kūʻai hou ʻia, ʻaʻole e hui pū i ʻelua pūʻulu Yarn no ka hana ʻana.

 

Ka ulana lole Jacquard

Ke hoʻomākaukauʻia nā wili a pau, e hoʻohuiʻia nā kaula i ka mīkini jacquard no ka hanaʻana, aʻo nā kaula o nā kala likeʻole e hoʻohuiʻia i kahi kiko'ī.Ma hope o ka hoʻokomo ʻana i ka faila papahana holo, e hoʻopau ka mīkini jacquard kamepiula i ka hana lole i hoʻolālā ʻia.

Lapaʻau lole Jacquard

Ma hope o ka ulana ʻia ʻana o ka lole, pono e mālama ʻia e nā ʻano kino a me nā ʻano kemika e hoʻomaikaʻi ai i kona palupalu, kūpaʻa abrasion, kūpaʻa wai, wikiwiki kala, a me nā waiwai ʻē aʻe o ka lole.

Nānā lole Jacquard

ʻO Jacquard Fabric Inspection Ma hope o ka hoʻoponopono ʻana i ka lole, ua pau nā hana hana a pau.Akā inā makemake ka lole i ka hāʻawi ʻana i nā mea kūʻai aku, pono ka nānā hope ʻana o ka lole e hōʻoia:

1. Paʻa ka lole me ka ʻole o ka kulu.
2. ʻAʻohe weft oblique ka lole.
3. ua like ke kala me ke kumu.
4. Pono ka nui o ke kumu

ʻO nā hiʻohiʻona o ka lole jacquard

ʻO nā pono o ka lole jacquard

1. He moʻolelo a nani ke ʻano o ka lole jacquard, a ʻaʻole like kona lima;2. He waiwai loa nā lole Jacquard i nā kala.Hiki ke ulana ʻia nā ʻano like ʻole e like me nā lole kumu like ʻole, e hana ana i nā ʻokoʻa kala like ʻole.Hiki i nā mea a pau ke loaʻa i kā lākou mau ʻano punahele a me nā hoʻolālā.3. He mea maʻalahi ka mālamaʻana i ka lole Jacquard, a he meaʻoluʻolu loa ia eʻaʻahu i ke ola o kēlā me kēia lā, a he mau hiʻohiʻona hoʻi o ka māmā, ka palupalu, a me ka hanu.4. 'A'ole e like me ka pa'i 'ana a me ka ho'opa'a 'ia 'ana, 'a'ole e mae a 'ino paha kou 'a'ahu i ka ulana lole jacquard.

Nā hemahema o ka lole jacquard

1. Ma muli o ka hoʻolālā paʻakikī o kekahi mau lole jacquard, ua kiʻekiʻe loa ka weft density o ka lole, kahi e hoʻemi ai i ka ea permeability o ka lole.2. ʻO ka hoʻolālā a me ka hanaʻana o nā lole jacquard he mea paʻakikī, a he kiʻekiʻe ke kumukūʻai ma waena o nā lole o ka mea like.

Hoʻokaʻawale i nā lole jacquard

 

Brocade

He kumu hoʻohālike wale nō ʻo Brocade ma kekahi ʻaoʻao, a ʻaʻohe kumu hoʻohālike o kekahi ʻaoʻao.He nui ka Brocade: ·1.Paʻa pākaukau.He mea maikaʻi loa ʻo Brocade no nā papa ʻaina, e like me nā napkin, nā pākaukau, a me nā pākaukau.He mea hoʻonaninani ʻo Brocade akā paʻa a hiki ke kū i ka hoʻohana ʻana i kēlā me kēia lā ·2.Nā lole.He mea maikaʻi loa ʻo Brocade no ka hana ʻana i nā lole, e like me nā ʻaʻahu ʻoki a i ʻole nā ​​ʻaʻahu ahiahi.ʻOiai ʻaʻole like nā lole koʻikoʻi e like me nā lole māmā ʻē aʻe, hana ka paʻa i kahi silhouette i kūkulu ʻia.·3.Mea lako.Kaulana ʻo Brocade no nā mea hoʻonaninani e like me nā scarves a me nā ʻeke lima.ʻO nā hiʻohiʻona nani a me nā lole paʻa e hana i kahi hiʻohiʻona nani no nā ʻāpana ʻōlelo.·4.Hoʻohiwahiwa hale.Ua lilo ʻo Brocade cades i mea hoʻonani hale no kā lākou mau hoʻolālā hoʻohiwahiwa.ʻO ka lōʻihi o Brocade ka mea kūpono no ka upholstery a me nā pale.

 

Brocatelle

 

Ua like ʻo Brocatelle me Brocade i kona ʻano ma kekahi ʻaoʻao, ʻaʻole kekahi.He hoʻolālā ʻoi aku ka paʻakikī o kēia lole ma mua o Brocade, nona kahi hiʻohiʻona kū hoʻokahi i hoʻokiʻekiʻe ʻia.ʻOi aku ke kaumaha a ʻoi aku ka lōʻihi o Brocatelle ma mua o Brocade.Hoʻohana pinepine ʻia ʻo Brocatelle no nā lole maʻamau a kiʻekiʻe, e like me nā lole, nā lole, a pēlā aku.

Damaseka

Hōʻike ʻia nā hoʻolālā Damask e ke kumu a me nā kala hoʻohālike e huli ana i mua a i hope.Hoʻohālikelike ʻia ʻo Damask a hana ʻia me nā kaula satin no ka ʻoluʻolu.ʻO ka huahana hope loa he mea lole lole nani e hiki ke hoʻohuli ʻia.Hoʻohana maʻamau ʻia ka lole Damask a hana ʻia i nā lole, nā ʻaʻahu, nā ʻaʻahu nani, a me nā ʻaʻahu.

 

Matelassé

ʻO Matelassé (kahi i ʻike ʻia ʻo ka lole pālua) he ʻano ulana Farani i hoʻoikaika ʻia e hāʻawi i ka lole i kahi hiʻohiʻona quilted a padded.Hiki ke ʻike ʻia nā lole quilted he nui ma luna o kahi lom jacquard a hoʻolālā ʻia e hoʻohālike i ke ʻano o ka humuhumu lima a i ʻole ka quilting.He kūpono nā lole Matelassé no nā uhi hoʻonani, nā uluna hoʻolei, nā moena, nā uhi quilt, nā duvets, a me nā pahu uluna.Hoʻohana nui ʻia i nā moena moena a me nā moena o nā keiki.

 

 

 

Ka lole lole

Ma nā huaʻōlelo hou, ʻo "Tapestry" e pili ana i kahi lole i ulana ʻia ma kahi lom jacquard e hoʻohālike i nā tapestries mōʻaukala.ʻO "Tapestry" kahi huaʻōlelo pololei ʻole, akā e wehewehe ana i kahi lole kaumaha me kahi ulana paʻakikī.He ʻokoʻa ko ka tapestry ma ke kua (no ka laʻana, ʻo ka lole me nā lau ʻōmaʻomaʻo ma ka ʻāina ʻulaʻula he lau ʻulaʻula ma hope o ka ʻāina ʻōmaʻomaʻo) akā ʻoi aku ka mānoanoa, ʻoʻoleʻa, a ʻoi aku ke kaumaha ma mua o ka damask.Uli ʻia ʻo Tapestry me kahi wili mānoanoa ma mua o Brocade a Damask paha.Tapestry No ka hoʻonani hale: sofa, uluna, a me ka lole lole.

 

 

 

Cloque

ʻO ka lole Cloque kahi hiʻohiʻona ulana kiʻekiʻe a me kahi hiʻohiʻona pleated a i ʻole quilted.Hoʻokumu ʻia ka ʻili me nā kiʻi liʻiliʻi i hoʻokiʻekiʻe ʻole ʻia i hana ʻia e ke ʻano ulana.Hana ʻokoʻa kēia lole jacquard ma mua o nā lole jacquard ʻē aʻe i hana ʻia ma o ke kaʻina hoʻoemi.Ke emi nei ka ʻili maoli o ka lole i ka wā o ka hana ʻana, no laila e uhi ʻia ka mea i loko o nā puʻupuʻu e like me ka blister.ʻO nā ʻaʻahu cloque a me nā lole nani i hoʻohana mau ʻia no nā hanana like ʻole a me nā hanana i hoʻolālā ʻia i loko o kēia lole a nani loa a nani.He nani a hōʻike i ka maʻalahi ʻaʻole hiki ke hoʻohālikelike i nā mea ʻē aʻe.